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Account Of A Tour In Normandy - Volume I

Dawson Turner

LETTERS FROM NORMANDY

ADDRESSED

TO THE REV. JAMES LAYTON, B.A.

OF

CATFIELD, NORFOLK.

UNDERTAKEN CHIEFLY FOR THE PURPOSE OF INVESTIGATING THEARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES OF THE DUCHY, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON ITSHISTORY, ON THE COUNTRY, AND ON ITS INHABITANTS.
ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.
LONDON: 1820.

PREFACE.

The observations which form the basis of the following letters,were collected during three successive tours in Normandy, in thesummers of 1815, 1818, and 1819; but chiefly in the second of theseyears. Where I have not depended upon my own remarks, I haveendeavored, as far as appeared practicable and without tediousminuteness, to quote my authorities for facts; and I believe that Ihave done so in most instances, except indeed where I have borrowedfrom the journals of the companions of my tours,—the nearestand dearest of my connections,—or from that of my friend, Mr.Cohen, who, at almost the same time, travelled through a great partof Normandy, pursuing also very similar objects of inquiry. Thematerials obtained from these sources, it has been impossible toseparate from my own; and, interwoven as they are with the rest ofthe text, it is only in my power to acknowledge, in these generalterms, the assistance which I have thus received.—We wereproceeding in 1818, to the southern and western districts ofNormandy, when a domestic calamity compelled me to return toEngland. The tour was consequently abridged, and many places ofnote remained unvisited by us.

My narrative is principally addressed to those readers who findpleasure in the investigation of architectural antiquity. Withoutthe slightest pretensions to the character either of an architector of an antiquarian, engaged in other avocations and employed inother studies, I am but too conscious of my inability to do justiceto the subject. Yet my remarks may at least assist the futuretraveller, by pointing out such objects as are interesting, eitheron account of their antiquity or their architectural worth. Thisinformation is not to be obtained from the French, who havehabitually neglected the investigation of their national monuments.I doubt, however, whether I should have ventured upon publication,if those who have always accompanied me both at home and abroad,had not produced the illustrations which constitute the principalvalue of my volumes. Of the merits of these illustrations I mustnot be allowed to speak; but it may be permitted me to observe,that the fine arts afford the only mode of exerting the talents ofwoman, which does not violate the spirit of the precept which thegreatest historian of antiquity has ascribed to the greatest of herheroes—

"Της τε γαρ᾽υπαρχουσηςφυσεως μηχειροσιγενεσϑαι,᾽υμινμεγαλη ᾽ηδοξα, χαι διςαν επ᾽ελαχιστοναρετης περιη ψογου εντοις αρσεσιχλεος η."

[English. Not in Original: "Great will be your glory in notfalling short of your natural character; and greatest will be herswho is least talked of among the men whether for good or for bad."Thucydides' Historiae. (Book 2, Chapter 45, Paragraph 2, Verses3-5.)]

DAWSON TURNER.

YARMOUTH, 13th August, 1820.


CONTENTS.

LETTER I.

Arrival at Dieppe—Situation and Appearance of theTown—Costume of the People—Inhabitants of the Suburb ofPollet.

LETTER II.

Dieppe—Castle—Churches—History of thePlace—Feast of the Assumption.

LETTER III.

Cæsars Camp—Castle of

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