Scanned and typed by Eric Hutton (bookman@rmplc.co.uk)
Noto, an unexplored corner of Japan
by Percival Lowell
From you, my dear Basil, the confidant of my hopes toward Noto, Iknow I may look for sympathy now that my advances have met with suchhappy issue, however incomplete be my account. And so I ask you tobe my best man in the matter before the world.
Ever yours,
Percival Lowell.
Basil Hall Chamberlain, Esq.
Contents.
I. An Unknown.
II. Off and On.
III. The Usui Pass.
IV. Zenkoji.
V. No.
VI. On a New Cornice Road.
VII. Oya Shiradzu, Ko Shiradzu.
VIII. Across the Etchiu Delta.
IX. Over the Arayama Pass.
X. An Inland Sea.
XI. Anamidzu.
XII. At Sea Again.
XIII. On the Noto Highway.
XIV. The Harinoki Toge.
XV. Toward the Pass.
XVI. Riuzanjita.
XVII. Over the Snow.
XVIII. A Genial Inkyo.
XIX. Our Passport and the Basha.
XX. Down the Tenriugawa.
XXI. To the Sea.
NOTO: an unexplored corner of Japan.
I. An Unknown.
The fancy took me to go to Noto.
It seemed a strange fancy to my friends.
Yet I make no apology for it; for it was a case of love at first sight.
Scanning, one evening, in Tokyo, the map of Japan, in a vague, itineraryway, with the look one first gives to the crowd of faces in a ballroom,my eye was caught by the pose of a province that stood out in graphicmystery from the western coast. It made a striking figure there,with its deep-bosomed bays and its bold headlands. Its name, itappeared, was Noto; and the name too pleased me. I liked its vowelcolor; I liked its consonant form, the liquid n and the decisive t.Whimsically, if you please, it suggested both womanliness and will.The more I looked the more I longed, until the desire carried me notsimply off my feet, but on to them.
Nobody seemed to know much about my inamorata. Indeed, those I askedasked me, in their own want of information, why I went, and whatthere was to see: of which questions, the second itself did foranswer to the first. Why not in fact have set my heart on going toNoto just because it was not known! Not that it is well to believeall the unseen to be much worth the seeing, but that I had an itchingsole to tread what others had not already effacingly betrodden.
Privately, I was delighted with the general lack of knowledge on thesubject. It served admirably to put me in conceit with my choice;although I will own I was rather at a loss to account for it, and Ican only explain it now by the fact that the place was so out of theway, and not very unlike others, after all. Being thus candid, Iought perhaps to go a step farther and renounce the name. But, onthe two great principles that the pursuit is itself the prize andthat the means justifies the end, I prefer to keep it. For there wasmuch of interest to me by the way; and I cling to the name out of akind of loyalty to my own fancy. I like to think that Xenophon feltas much in his Anabasis, though but one book out of seven deals withthe going up, the other six being occupied with the getting safelyaway again. It is not told that Xenophon regretted his adventure.Certainly I am not sorry I was wedded to my idea.
To most of my acquaintance Noto was scarcely so much as a name, andits local habitation was purely cart